Dear Bruce,

Thoughts from a sailing boat in Croatia - from the heart ….for Pete.

Dear Spidey,

We have just been sailing in Croatia – the New Cape Town. Thanks to you (and Brucie and Meryl), my kids are hunting,

shooting and fishing like mad, too.

Croatian cruising heaven. Nine hundred and forty eight islands. Crystal clear, warmish, Adriatic sea – snorkel sight to a

depth of 21metres. No sharks. Phew! No mosquitoes. No crime. Amazing – having been at war for so long, no-one dare break

the rules. This war-ravaged country is evolving again – having been the scourge of pirates and conquerors since medieval

times. Just endless, hot Mediterranean days. Cooling breezes at night. Toes being nibbled by curious pike-faced fishies.(Pat,

you would know their name). A lone porpoise breaks the surface. Butt-ugly, muddy-looking jellyfish. Coral sunsets, cypress

trees and owls – yes, loads of swooping owls. And the local dogs swimming at night! They just leap in the sea and cool down.

How sensible! Who needs walkies anyway.

Pete, not a day went by without a fleeting memory of you and all the fun we had growing up in Betty's Bay and Hermanus.

People travel mainly by boat – flappy boats, fishing boats, aztec-boats, keelboats, mega gin palaces, discreetly moored in

private bays - around every corner, around every island. Space for everyone here. Venetian-style ruins mix with simple

limestone houses with terracotta roofs. Everyone has a waterfront view – everyone has a waterfront. Unspoilt Heaven! And

plants from home – like bouganvillia, hibiscus, olives, rosemary, swollen figs, buffalo grass, indigenous holm oak trees and

carpets of vygies! And bokkies leaping up the rocks! And even a marula-type tree that is named the 'Johannisberg' tree.

After dropping the bow anchor each night, we were amazed to observe the local fishermen delivering live fish to rickety,

seafront restaurants, who pop them in square pools (at the water's edge), later to be fished out by customers. How nice to see

an outdoor braai again! Croatians cook outdoors under the stars. What a pleasure! We witnessed a commotion one night

when a local fisherman had landed his catch of a 40kg tuna and the whole village turned out to view it – and be photographed

next to it. Fiery drinks were in order. These healthy, fit-looking people, savour their food – bounteous octopus, prawns and

giant mussels.

Hats off to my boys for landing and cooking the GIANT MUSSELS. (Wish I hadn't inherited the allergy to shellfish gene!)

Cooked on board with local herbs and oil, these fist-sized mussels were wolfed in seconds! Matt hauling in fish after fish on a

home-made line. Reminiscent of you guys with Peter Bodie hooking the steenbras at Hermanus lagoon.

And our great buddies, (from Sevenoaks) Tim and Pauline, Georgie and James, sharing our boat and hysterical laughter

and great food. And the best ice-cream in the world! And Croatian potjies too! Full of veal and sausages and washed down

with the local merlot called Dingach, or Grk, a surprisingly good sauvignon blanc.

Terraced vineyards and rustic dwellings – a magical, embryonic unspoilt haven. Crinkled faces and village sword dances,

and buying fresh bread from the baker hard at work at two in the morning. (And Mike our gallant Skipper, and my long-

suffering husband, around the corner stuffing down croissants thinking we couldn't see him!)

And fearless Julia stretched out in her bikini, sleeping inside the mainsail precariously perched on the boom.

Funny names like Pupnat and Split and Korcula and Smokvika. Interesting thing we noticed – no-one seemed to have grey

hair! Marco Polo was born here and lived for adventure. This ship-building, sea-faring nation was inspired by his travels.

Pete, YOU would have LOVED this place. Lighting a smoke (they all smoke here), I see you hauling up the day's catch

onto the boat for a sort-out, quick clean and plunge onto the braai. And onto the next crystal bay and onto the next adventure

around every corner, every day.

Wish we had shared your tears.

At least we have truly lived these recent precious moments for you.

And we will NEVER forget you.

Lots of love always, Caz, Mike, Matt and Jules xxxx

Carol ‘Peta, Philly's twin, Carly Smith, England, September 2007

IN YOUR WORDS